Diamond Hundred Net

Diamond Hundred Net – I have always had a love/hate relationship with my patio. It has been unfair the way we have lived in our home for the past 12 years, the patio has either been

I’ve always wanted to create a canopy that would block the sun when needed, but still be removable to let the sun shine into the living room windows when I want to take it down. And I’ve always wanted a place to sit outside and enjoy nature without being bitten by mosquitoes.

Diamond Hundred Net

Let’s check out the tutorial for making this mosquito net patio canopy!

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Patios and decks can get pretty messy. For some reason, mold and mildew grow on our patio year-round, regardless of the season, so it needs to be cleaned every spring and summer. You can see in the pictures below that it was

Our patio was the perfect spot for this DIY canopy since it’s the flattest spot on our property.

Canopy with mosquito netting, make sure your site is level as well. Hills won’t work if you’re going to use concrete planters and posts like I did for this project.

Lightly sand the rough edges of the pressure treated posts. A mosquito net can get stuck if it gets caught on a rough edge. Wear a dust mask!

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ADVICE. If you are painting or staining pressure treated posts, it is best to test them first to see if they are “dry” enough to paint or stain. Do you mean if you put water on them, does it seep in or does the water stay on the wood? Once the water penetrates, the pressure-treated wood is dry enough for painting or staining. If the water sits on the wood, it is not dry enough and you need to wait. Mine didn’t fully soak in during the water test, so I’ll paint them later.

For this patio canopy, I’m using a resin wine barrel that’s half-filled with concrete. I decided to create a canopy with planters instead of attaching it to the house because I may want to easily move the canopy to another part of the yard.

I can tilt the concrete plants at an angle and gently roll them to another location. I wanted this DIY canopy over my patio to be non-permanent (which is also great for renters and rentals since it’s not attached to the house).

I decided to add some drainage holes to the bottom of the planters so the water could drain out easily.

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I set the planters in their general location on the patio. I’ll admit I struggled with this part because I didn’t have stakes and string or anything but a tape measure to guess their placement relative to the house and each other.

The easiest is to use 8-foot 4×4 posts in the planter boxes and 8-foot 2×2 pressure-treated lumber on top to connect all the posts. Not only are they easier to load into a car or van, but when everything is 8 feet long, it’s easier to build everything without the need for tools to cut or trim. You end up with only an 8′ x 8′ square, perfect for your patio or deck canopy.

You will need some wood with screws to temporarily hold the 4×4 posts in place (2x4s work great). Use some pea gravel or other small stones at the bottom for drainage. Use a post level to make sure the post is vertical and level before pouring in the quick-set concrete.

For these 20-inch planters, I used a bag and a half of 50-pound quick-set concrete. It’s so easy to use! Simply pour the dry concrete into the pot and then pour in the water. No mixing required! I think I used too much water on some of my planters. Oops! The bag said to use 2-1/2 gallons of water for each bag of concrete. It seems like there’s no way it could work unless you mix it up, but trust me: it does! It will look like “soup” but after 30 minutes it will start to set.

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Note that some of the concrete mix is ​​leaking from the bottom. Be prepared to wipe it if necessary before it dries. I didn’t think it was a big deal. I just wanted a way for the excess water to drain. Once the concrete is dry, this shouldn’t be a problem.

I also only wanted about half of the pot filled with concrete as the other half is for soil and flowers!

As I mentioned, I’m making an 8’x8′ DIY canopy, but I need to leave extra fabric on the top, bottom, and sides for the seams.

Put your fabric pieces together to create a larger canopy if needed to match any pattern.

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I’m using this wonderful black and white striped 46″ wide outdoor awning fabric, so I cut the 6 yards I bought in half and then used double sided tape to secure the two panels in place, overlap them and sew 2 rows of seams. to secure them.

(TIP: When cutting synthetic outdoor fabric, use a hot knife that melts and cuts the fabric at the same time, avoiding tearing the fabric. DO NOT use a hot knife on cotton or other natural fabrics. This is a fire hazard!)

The side seams of the canopy are 1 inch wide, which were folded and sewn. Since the ends were frayed, I later cut the seams with a hot knife, removing the wear.

Originally, when I designed this mosquito net canopy (it reminded me of a pergola), I envisioned it having pleats at the top with seals that would allow the canopy to retract and slide on the rope.

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Quickly when I realized that working with steel cables would not work for this project because of the difficulty of attaching them securely to the 4×4 posts and because the weight of the fabric would pull the cable down into an unflattering position.

Therefore, you can skip the next step of adding these pleats and use a flat hood without pleats instead.

But I’m adding this step because later when I fixed the project the volt sockets actually came in handy as I could run bug lights through them on the “roof” of the canopy. 🙂

If you’re interested in adding pleats with the gussets (which is the roof of the canopy), simply pull the fabric together so the pleats are evenly spaced and sew a 1-inch pleat. In my case, I added pleats every 24 inches and ended up with 3 pleats.

How To Make A Diy Canopy Shade With Mosquito Net!

Adding cutouts to fabric is so much fun! You can literally add seals to almost any type of fabric, including a cover, even through layers of thick outer fabric like I used!

I’m using the Arrow Fastener Multi-Grommet Tool Kit, which I’ve used before when I made my beautiful seamless shower curtain. The set comes with six sets, each in the most popular diameters – 3/8″ and 1/2″ – and is made of rust-resistant 100% brass, so you can use them outdoors for this DIY mosquito netting canopy.

The kit also includes a universal die box with two die heads (3/8″ and 1/2″), a double-sided anvil, two hole punches and a wooden support block in a free storage bag to keep everything organized.

You may need to purchase some additional gaskets, as I did, as the kit may not be enough for this project.

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I placed some of the seals on the “wrong” side of the fabric. It’s not a big deal. So if you do

Seals, make sure the RIGHT side of the fabric is DOWN and the WRONG side of the fabric is UP. 🙂 For the pictures below, I realized in hindsight that my fabric should have been on the bottom right.

I also installed grommets around the perimeter of the canopy screen (about every 24 inches) and also cut out all four corners and installed grommets in the corners to fit around the 4×4 posts.

The concrete should dry in about a day (it will continue to harden, but it will feel dry to the touch). The next step is to install the 2×2 pressure treated posts over the 4×4 posts.

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The ends should be flat and you want to use external screws (so they don’t rust). If necessary, drill the pilot holes first so that your screws do not break the 2×2 wood.

(Don’t mind the hardware hanging from the posts. They were leftover hardware from when I tried to make this wire rope canopy and it didn’t work).

Depending on the size of your canopy frame, you may need to cut off one end to keep the boards as even as possible. Use a circular saw or reciprocating saw,